Tripyramids, Whiteface, Passaconaway

I was lucky enough to have some great company on this trip; my friend Brandon and his friend Hanako accompanied me up to the Tripyramids, two four-thousand footers that lay just south of the Kancamagus Highway. We met up at about 6 AM on Saturday, July 14th, at a Dunkin Donuts in Somerville, near I-93. We discussed the plan, agreeing to meet at the Hancock overlook at the hairpin turn on the Kanc, that being a pretty hard place to miss. From there we spotted my car at the Sabbaday Falls parking area, and took Brandon's car to the Pine Bend Brook Trail, a short distance back west. That way we could hike the Pine Bend Trail, cut over to the summit of North Tripyramid on the Scaur Ridge trail, pop over to Middle Tri, and hike back out to my car on the Sabbaday Brook Trail.

view from Middle Tripyramid

Total time was about 9 hours, well over book time but it was very hot and humid so we took a lot of breaks, and generally took it at a slower pace. The Pine Brook trail was very beautiful and lush, fairly moderate terrain up until about 2 miles in, when it began to get rockier and steep. The conversation was welcome and made the miles fly by, but after so many miles of hiking alone, I had to fight the urge to buckle down and charge ahead. For the most part, I resisted, and it was good; it made me remember that this isn't a race and to enjoy the people and spaces around me; to enjoy the moment. The summit will come, fast or slow.

After a steep, sweaty climb up to the Scaur Ridge trail we had a short, very beautiful wooded ridgewalk, through small scrubby meadows and forests, before making a final, steep push up to the summit of North Tripyramid (4180'). The summit is relatively unremarkable and tree-covered, but a nice overlook is a quick amble down a side path. We had a pleasant - though somewhat bug infested - lunch of salami, cheese, bread and assorted snacks.

Sabbaday Falls - thanks to Hanako for the pic

After awhile we packed up and headed to Middle Tripyramid (4140'), almost directly south for about half a mile. We got to the bottom of the ridge and ditched our packs, deciding to head up to the next summit unfettered. The view from there was quite nice, open and sweeping toward the west. After a few minutes of mountain-gazing we headed back down, got back in our packs and started the descent down Sabbaday Brook, a 2.5 mile trail that seemed a lot longer, probably because of an inordinate about of brook crossings; we were all wondering aloud why the hell the trail can't just pick a side and stay with it?? At one point, when we stopped to refill our water (I was glad I toted my Katadyn Filter) I left my (remaining) hiking pole leaning against a tree and didn't notice I did until at least half a mile down the trail. As soon as I realized I didn't have it, I asked my hiking partners to take a break while I ran back to get it; they obliged. Not sure how I can fail to notice the absence of something in my hand that I've hiked with for so long, but who knows. I retrieved it, and we carried on.

Sabbaday Falls - thanks to Hanako for the pic

We left the Sandwich Wilderness and approached Sabbaday Falls. A great way to end a big day; these falls are marvelous. A wooden catwalk brings you up and over these ancient falls, granting great views of the rock that has been carved for millennia by the subtle but relentless seige of rushing water and ice, leading up to a sheer granite face topped with trees, casting a dappled, late afternoon light on the ice cold basins of green and blue water. Definitely go check out this peaceful, gorgeous place if you're driving down the Kanc, it's only a short walk down from the parking area, and well worth it.

We tried to find a campground on one of the many sites along the Kancamagus but no luck: we were sent down to Campton on Exit 28. We got there after dark and set up camp, cooked some food, drank a few beers and talked about the day. I'm glad I had some company for this hike, and I congratulated my friends on their first four-thousand footers. We turned in around 11, me and Brandon in his new Coleman tent - us both being epic snorers - and Hanako in my Eureka Spitfire solo tent, safe from our nocturnal cacophony.

I slept like a log and morning came quickly. I threw my bag and sleeping pad in the Vue and headed back up 93 to the Kanc and to the Downes Brook trailhead, right across from the Passaconaway campground entrance. I got started at about 8:30, this time alone. Brandon and Hanako were only up for one day of hiking and were heading back today, Sunday July 15th. My goal today, 14 miles up to Mt. Whiteface and Mt. Passaconaway, which would be my final summits in and around the Sandwich Range.

Kate Sleeper trail sign

cairn marking the Whiteface summit

Total time was almost exactly 8 hours, and a hot and humid 8 hours it was. The approach was very much like the day before, but longer, with an almost 6 mile hike up to my first summit, Mt. Whiteface (4020'). The first leg was the Downes Brook trail, a wild and rough trail that crossed the water several times. A couple of times the trail became extremely hard to follow; once I rock-hopped over the brook, thinking it crossed, but finding no trali on the other side. Going back over, I realized it hadn't crossed at all, but went right up to the water and then skirted up along the side. I had to pay close attention to stay on the trail. It was a bit monotonous for a while, and a bit mentally taxing, up until I hit the Kate Sleeper trail, where I got a bit of a second wind. A few minutes more of climbing and I got up to a clearing, close to the summit of Whiteface.

I took a break, removed the shoes, and layed back on a wide, hot rock, enjoying the quiet wooded clearing. It looks like a good place to camp; and people clearly have before, leaving a small amount of charcoals from a fire. There really are no "official" backcountry campsites in this range, so people have to "stealth camp" if they want to spend the night out here. A campsite called Camp Rich, near the junction of the Rollins and Dicey's Mill Trails, still very much a flat campsite, is still apparently used, but isn't an official site anymore. Not sure why all sites have been removed (since sometime in the Nineties) from the Sandwich/Wonalancet area, but suspect it's because not many people, relative to other parts of the WMNF, hike in this area. Clearly; I didn't see anyone at all until at least 8 miles into this hike, and he actually took me by surprise, having been hiking for so long and not seeing a soul.

view from Rollins trail

The Rollins trail connects Whiteface and Passaconaway, and was one of the highlights of the day for me. Views south are available now and then through the trees, and you're hiking pretty much right along the ridge that drops down into the Bowl. I started to run very low on water around here - I'd already sucked down 3 liters due to the conditions - and was starting to get concerned; but then I came around a bend and saw a small spring crossing the trail.

When you're at home, you don't have to think about water; turn the faucet and you have as much as you need. Out here, not so much. I was relieved and happy for such a simple luxury; a clean, ice cold mountain stream. I filled up my 2-liter bladder and Gatorade bottle, soaked my hat, and carried on. Not a lot of elevation here, and after a while I hit the junction of the loop that summits Passaconaway (4043'). The ascent up here was probably the steepest and most difficult of the hike, and it was early afternoon at this point, and it was extremely hot and humid. It was rocky, rooty, with poor footing, and so steep that I was touching the trail in front of me with my hands. I was hiking in as little clothing as possible, and even my pack was starting to get saturated in sweat. By the end of the day I'd gone through more than 5 liters of water. I was filtering using my Katadyn pump, and was fine with the extra weight, as I could get drinkable water immediately (not having to wait for iodine tablets to take effect) and there was no off-putting taste.

I descended from the summit and headed down the fairly steep and rocky Square Ledge trail, hit the Passaconway cutoff, and took it to the Oliverian Brook trail. The trail leveled off and grew wider, until I was walking on a wide, pine-needle covered path. Ski trails began to cross it laterally, and eventually I hit the Oliverian trail parking area. I got back to the Kanc and walked west for about 15 minutes back to my starting point. I was glad to see the Vue, glad I was finished. Though I felt good, I was sweaty and tired and ready for the day to be done. It was about 5 PM; time to head home. I bid the Sandwich Range adieu and thanked the mountains for their hospitality. A cool breeze blew by gently, as if to smile back.

The Whiteface/Passaconaway hike wasn't my favorite, but it was very nice. A long slog to get in and out, and no super-awesome views, but the trails are lush and wild and you have a great deal of solitude.