Cannon and the Kinsmen (Kinsmans?)

Sunrise over Franconia Ridge from N. Kinsman

Deciding on my next summits for the weenend of June 9, I looked back toward Franconia Notch. I hadn't hiked near this popular area since last summer, doing the classic Franconia Ridge loop. So, after hiking in some fairly remote parts of the Whites (the Bonds, the Carter Range), I thought a little company might be in order.

Usually I don't over-plan these mountain getaways - I open the map and find a few 4000' peaks that are close together, see if there's a route and if the mileage is do-able in the time I have, and the availability of shelters or tentsites. Cannon, North and South Kinsman looked like a pretty good excursion. I guess I could have done all three in a day, but honestly I'm not a huge fan of big-mileage runs; I'd rather hike in, camp out, and do two days. These mountains are so beautiful, after all, and the more time I can spend with them the better.

Lonesome Lake seen from the descent of Cannon Mt.

I parked at the Lafayette campground, right off I-93, and headed up the Lonesome Lake trail. Lots of people on this trail, it's not too far to the AMC Lonesome Lake hut (about 1.5 mi.), and a lot of folks hike in and just stay at the hut. The Lonesome Lake hut is one of the eight AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) shelters maintained in the White Mountains. They are quite nice, with hot meals and bunks, a library, and "entertainment" by the Croo. But they're also pretty costly, at about $90 (last I checked) for AMC members. I stayed at one last summer - The Mitzpah Spring Hut on Mt. Pierce. But for this trip I was shooting for Kinsman Pond Shelter, a couple of miles further west. If the caretaker was home, I'd pay about $8 for staying there.


After talking with a few folks with what seemed like a massive amount of gear for a stay at the hut (I mean, they have food, water, blankets, pillows, and a roof and it's 1.5 mi. from the car... what's in your pack??) I turned toward the Kinsman Ridge trail, and toward the summit of Cannon and the High-Cannon trail.

I have to stop looking up at a mountain I'm about to climb and say to myself "Well, that doesn't look too bad." All of these mountains are tough, I'm beginning to realize. But their difficulty is only surpassed by their ability to inspire awe and reverence. The climb up to Cannon summit was quite steep, but very beautiful. At the top is a tower, I'm not sure what it's primary purpose is but I'm pretty sure it has to do with skiing. But since it's "Bike Week", when Harley-riders everywhere descend on New Hampshire in general and Laconia in particular, there were lots of bikers at the summit. I'm guessing they took the tram up - hiking Cannon in a leather vest and jeans probably isn't a good idea.

 After a steep descent from Cannon, and some great views of Lonesome Lake, I cut back over to the AMC Hut and refilled water and took a break, before heading up the Fishin' Jimmy Trail toward the Kinsman Ridge. The name of this trail is deceiving; it conjures up images of lazy fishing at a stream, after a relaxed amble up a woodsy path. Nope. Very steep, rocky, wet, very challenging terrain. I managed it in about an hour, and got to the Kinsman Pond Shelter at about 3:30 PM.

Kinsman Pond Shelter

I considered banging out the Kinsmen that afternoon, but after the Fishin' Jimmy trail I was ready to take a load off and relax. The weather was sunny and warm, and my knees were barking at me, so I hung out on the porch of the shelter for a while, studying my map and drinking water. Three middle-aged women were already at the shelter, on the upper bunk level; they were very friendly New Hampshire residents who do lady-backpacking trips together a lot. Later on, we cooked dinner together and chatted about doing the 4000 footers. Heidi - she kind of seemed like the "leader" - had done all of them multiple times. She also knew how to play what seemed like a limitless number of card games. Later some baby-faced hikers from Massachusetts, two brothers and a sister - all in their early 20's or late teens, from what I gathered - rolled in and joined in the card games and chit-chat. We all hit it off and had a great time, sharing snacks and marvelling at the luxury items Heidi seems to continue to pull from her pack - the best was a little battery powered fan that also repelled mosquitoes. As the sun started to fade and the temps dropped, we all hit the hay. I slept like a rock that night; it was great sleeping weather, cool and dry.

I was up with the sun, and left most of my gear at the shelter while I hiked North and South Kinsman. I just brought day-hiking essentials (water, a couple of snacks, map, compass, extra layer) - since I was doing the Kinsmen and then coming right back past the shelter on my way out, there was no need to carry everything. The hike up to these peaks wasn't too bad, I'd gotten a lot of the elevation out of the way on the first day; the walk along the ridge between the two summits was beautiful; the view from North Kinsman of the sun rising over Franconia Ridge, with the clouds pouring over the tops of the mountains and the sun illuminating the top of the mist, was otherworldly and enthralling. After hitting South Kinsman, I headed back, and the round trip from the shelter to the peaks took about 2 hours. I bid farewell to Heidi and the ladies at about 8 AM (the kids were still asleep), packed up my sleeping bag and other things and headed down the Kinsman Ridge trail. It was a little longer than the way I came in, but I don't like going down the same trail twice - especially Fishin' Jimmy - if I don't have to. Glad I didn't, the Kinsman Ridge Trail is very beautiful, with dense forests, rocky outcroppings, a few passes with scrubby alpine vegetation, and a few extraordinary views. It was about 5 miles from the shelter back to Lafayette campground, to my truck. And then it was on to Ogunquit to install Amy's sign! Later on that night I actually felt really sick, and decided it was probably because of dehydration -- I drank half a gallon of water and felt a lot better. It was the hottest weekend of the year so far, and the sun was beating down the whole time. Remember to drink plenty of water!

What I wished I had: My Katadyn water filter pump. The water source at the Kinsman Shelter was Kinsman Pond, and since I'd drunk all my water getting up Fishin' Jimmy, I had to fill up at the pond. It was kind of gross. I purified it with my iodine tablets (which I've been carrying because they're a lot lighter) but I feel like the pump would have done a better job, and made the water a bit more appetizing.

What I forgot: my cookpot! Washed it and left it in the dish rack. Heidi had an extra (of course) that I used, luckily. It's a good idea, when packing for a trip, to have a list and lay everything out on the floor or bed before packing it all.

What worked well: a single trekking pole. After losing one of my poles on Wildcat mountain I've just been using the one - which I like on really steep terrain like this range. I can have one free hand to grab trees, hold on to a rock, or brace myself when I inevitably fall on my ass.

Didn't need: tarp, bug net. Since I stayed in the shelter. But again the tarp only weight 9 oz. so I don't mind carrying it just in case; tarps have a millions uses in the backcountry. We almost used the bug net to cover the entrance to the shelter because we thought the bugs might be a problem, but after sunset they stopped biting and went to sleep.